I'm telling you, I was gonna go all Ana White and have a shopping list, a cut list, and step by steps.
Someone (else) please sweep the garage. Yeesh.
And now-- now I have way more respect for her than I did before. And that's hard to top, folks. Plans for a project? Waaaaay.hard.
Just trying something as simple as this scrambled my brain with a fork. A fork.
And so, I said, "screw it."
Let's do this my way, peeps. The craptastic way, of course, if ya don't mind.
Oh, you do mind? What?? I'm sorta hard of hearing. Here we go!!
First things first. I want you to know that I thought these window boxes through from every angle, and lemme explain ma-self.
1. You can make these from rot-resistant molding (i.e., pvc molding). You could, but then it would cost you your right arm and your newborn child.
2. I find this to be the most economical route to take. In other words, I'm cheap. Everyone knows this.
These are the boards I suggest. They are pine. They are also referred to as "Common Pine", and Lowe's calls them "Top Choice Whitewood Board".
I'm thinking these descriptions are a tad contradictory.
Why did I use these (why do I always use these?)? They are the cheapest. Pretty sure they're cheaper than MDF, even. Pretty sure.
*Note: you can get a 1x6x6 for the low, low price of around $3. BUT! Do check for straight boards. You've got to dig for awesome boards. It's the price ya pay for awesome, cheap pine, okey dokey? Ana explains how to find a good board here.
Okay! We've got that out of the way.
Let's cut some crap.
I cut my boards to the length of my windows and the trim surrounding it (for me, that's 5 feet exactly, thank you for asking):
and cut the ends of the sides on 45° angles. The back-cut, crown-molding way-- not to be confused with the 45° way you'd cut a frame, okey dokey? I think it gives them a nicer edge, as opposed to a wood butted-up look.
Couple things, here:
1. The bottom of your box will be all on the inside. Then, the ugly way the boards meet up is hidden on the bottom.
2. If ya used 1x6 boards, the side pieces should measure at 7 1/4", long point measurement, ends cut on 45°, sides not parallel. Obviously.
Used 2" screws, along the bottom, 'cause I knew I was gonna just cover them up with some purty molding. Do pre-drill in this pine. Take my word for it.
Then, go ahead and attach your molding of choice with your trusty nail gun. The molding I just so happened to use was pvc molding-- it's cap molding actually, hehehe, but I like that it will hold up well. Cuts like butta, too.
Now-- these boxes (molding excepted) are just pine. Yes, I mentioned that before. Yes, this is re-dun-dun-dundant. I have a point, here.
Pine is just not gonna hold up well outside. It's just not. Am I right or am I right? Right.
For one thing: they're not going to stay out there through the winter (show ya my handy hanging trick later).
Second: gonna line the insides in plastic.
Third: I'm gonna hose my window boxes down with a good coat of poly. Just so ya know, all "clear" coats are not created equal.
So frustrating when you're trying to keep your white stuff white and your final coat makes everything yellow-ish. Arrrr. Been there, done that?
I have found both these two up here to be really, truly clear. It's a miracle! I used Rust-oleum's on this, due to it's "maximum weather resistance!". Gotta have that.
here's window box numero uno all done. And so, what do I envision?
Hopefully a little a this:
Or this amazeballs-ness.